Growing Up in Bombay, Discovering Its Literary Soul

I was born in Bombay in 1991, just before the city officially became Mumbai. My childhood memories are filled with the sensory experiences of this metropolis: the smell of vada pav from street vendors, the rhythmic clacking of local trains, and the relentless monsoons that transformed our streets into temporary rivers. But it wasn't until I turned 18 that I discovered the rich literary tradition that had been surrounding me all along.

The Late Discovery

Unlike many who are introduced to literature through family, my journey with Bombay's writers was entirely self-initiated. Our home in Dadar wasn't filled with bookshelves of classics or poetry collections. We had the practical texts needed for school and little else. The names Kolatkar, Ezekiel, and Nagarkar were unknown to me throughout my childhood and teenage years.

It was during my first year of college when a classmate mentioned Rohinton Mistry's "Such a Long Journey" in passing. Something about the way she described it, a story set in the very neighborhoods I'd walked through countless times, sparked my curiosity. I bought a secondhand copy from a street vendor outside Flora Fountain, its pages yellowed and corners folded by previous readers.

That book changed everything. For the first time, I saw my city transformed through words on a page. Streets I had taken for granted were suddenly imbued with history and meaning. I recognized the characters; they were people I had grown up among without truly seeing them. The Noble Tailors on Kala Ghoda, the Bombay Central Post Office, Tower of Silence: places I'd passed a hundred times without understanding their significance until Mistry showed me how they anchored individual lives and collective histories.

Literary Hunger

What followed was a voracious appetite for everything written about Bombay. I saved my pocket money for books, discovering Kiran Nagarkar's "Ravan and Eddie" with its vibrant depiction of chawl life, and Vikram Chandra's "Love and Longing in Bombay" that showed me sides of the city I had never explored.

The characters in these books lived in the same geographical space as me but seemed to inhabit an entirely different emotional landscape. Nagarkar's protagonists on Tardeo's Central Works Department chawl navigated a world I thought I understood, having grown up not far from there. But through his eyes, I saw the intricate social hierarchies, the complex web of relationships, and the particular brand of resilience that I had been blind to despite my proximity.

Nissim Ezekiel's poetry revealed Bombay as both muse and monster. I still remember sitting at a small table in Café Samovar in Kala Ghoda, reading his "Background, Casually" and looking up at the exact sky he must have contemplated decades earlier. The thrill of that connection, of shared geography across time, was intoxicating. His "Island" confronted me with a portrait of my city that was both beautiful and brutal:

"The city like a passion burns.

He dreams of morning walks, alone,

And floating on a wave of sand."

Those lines made me wonder: had I been living on this same island all along without feeling the passion Ezekiel described? Had I been numb to both its possibilities and its pain?

Changing Landscapes

My literary exploration coincided with dramatic changes in the city itself. The Mumbai I was discovering through books was rapidly disappearing before my eyes. Mills that featured prominently in Nagarkar's work were being transformed into shopping malls. The Irani cafés that housed generations of poets and intellectuals were shuttering one by one.

I felt a strange dual existence, physically inhabiting a city rushing toward a globalized future while mentally living in the Bombay preserved in novels and poems from decades past. This tension created an urgency to my reading, as if I was excavating cultural artifacts before they vanished completely.

In 2010, I watched as the iconic Samovar Café at Jehangir Art Gallery closed its doors after five decades. This was where Arun Kolatkar had sat with his "Jejuri" manuscript, where artists and writers had gathered since the 1960s. I'd only discovered it a year before its closure, barely having time to create my own memories there before it became another ghost in the city's literary history.

Phoenix Mills in Lower Parel, once the throbbing heart of Bombay's textile industry, a setting for labor movements and working-class narratives, had completed its transformation into High Street Phoenix, a luxury shopping destination. Walking through its gleaming corridors, I tried to imagine the looms and workers that Nagarkar and others had written about, but found it increasingly difficult to reconcile these parallel realities.

The city was shedding skins faster than its writers could document them. Bandra's quaint bungalows gave way to high-rises, fishing villages were engulfed by development projects, and ancient communities were dispersed by gentrification. The geography I was learning to love through literature was eroding with each passing year.

Yet certain constants remained. The Arabian Sea still crashed against Marine Drive. Crawford Market still buzzed with the same energy despite new signage declaring it Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Market. The local trains still formed the circulatory system of the city, carrying its lifeblood of commuters from one end to another regardless of what names appeared on official maps.

These unchanging elements became my anchors, the parts of Bombay that existed both in the pages I read and the city I walked through. They helped me bridge the gap between literary memory and lived experience.

Maximum City: An Unflinching Portrait

My literary journey would be incomplete without mentioning Suketu Mehta's "Maximum City," which profoundly transformed my understanding of Mumbai. Unlike the fiction I had consumed, Mehta's narrative nonfiction presented an unvarnished portrait of the metropolis that pulled no punches. His intimate conversations with gangsters, bar dancers, movie industry insiders, and riot victims revealed a Mumbai I had lived alongside but never truly comprehended.

Reading "Maximum City" was like having scales fall from my eyes. Mehta's investigation of the 1992-93 riots forced me to confront the city's darkest chapter, which had occurred when I was barely a toddler. His exploration of the criminal underbelly operating beneath the surface of everyday life made me question how much of the city remained invisible to me despite my daily interactions with its spaces.

What struck me most was Mehta's ability to present Mumbai without romanticizing its chaos or poverty. He showed how the city's extremes of wealth and deprivation, violence and compassion, corruption and resilience coexisted not as opposites but as integral parts of the same urban organism. Through his lens, I began to understand that loving Mumbai meant accepting its full complexity: its remarkable achievements alongside its profound failures.

The book challenged me to look beyond my comfortable middle class perspective. When Mehta wrote about the dreams that drove millions to crowd into this impossible city, I recognized the same aspirational energy that had brought my own grandparents here decades earlier. His portraits of people pursuing success against overwhelming odds illuminated the particular psychology of Mumbai: a tenacity born from the daily struggle for space, opportunity, and dignity.

Literary Mirrors: Finding Myself in Mumbai's Pages

As my reading deepened, something unexpected happened. In the pages of these Bombay writers, I began to discover not just the city but myself. Coming of age in this metropolis had shaped me in ways I hadn't recognized until I saw them reflected in literature.

When Nagarkar wrote about the constant negotiations of space in the chawls, I understood my own adaptability, how I'd learned to claim just enough territory on crowded trains or busy streets without taking more than my share. Rushdie's descriptions of time working differently in Bombay explained my own relationship with punctuality, the peculiar elasticity that locals understand intuitively.

I discovered contemporary voices documenting Mumbai as it existed now: Altaf Tyrewala's "No God in Sight" with its multiple narrators reflecting the city's fragmented identities, Anjali Joseph's "Saraswati Park" capturing the quiet dignity of middle-class life, and Jerry Pinto's "Em and the Big Hoom" revealing the private struggles behind public faces. These weren't just stories about a place; they were mirrors reflecting aspects of my own experience I had never fully articulated.

Jeet Thayil's "Narcopolis" showed me the underbelly of neighborhoods I'd passed through without seeing. It made me question how selectively I'd been viewing my own city, how many invisible lives existed alongside mine. I started walking different routes, observing with new attention, recognizing that my Mumbai was just one version among millions.

Reading taught me that being a true Mumbaikar wasn't just about birthright but about developing a particular relationship with chaos and possibility. It was about carrying within you a mental map not just of physical spaces but of historical and cultural layers. Each author added new dimensions to this map.

Sacred Spaces

Certain places became pilgrimage sites in my personal literary geography. The David Sassoon Library garden, where I imagined Adil Jussawalla and Dom Moraes once conversing. Café Mondegar, where Arun Kolatkar might have scribbled notes for his Kala Ghoda poems. The sea wall at Marine Drive, where countless characters in countless novels had contemplated their futures against the backdrop of the Arabian Sea.

In these spaces, reading became a form of time travel. Through books, I could access a Bombay that existed before my birth, the city of the 1970s and 80s when many of these authors were at their creative peak. I could also see how the fundamental character of the city persisted despite superficial changes.

The City as Palimpsest

Now in my thirties, I've come to understand Bombay as a palimpsest, a document written over many times yet retaining traces of its earlier forms. The physical city constantly reinvents itself, old buildings demolished, new towers rising, coastlines reclaimed from the sea. But beneath these transformations, certain essential truths remain, captured and preserved by its writers.

When I walk through Colaba now, I see it simultaneously through my own eyes and through the literary lenses provided by generations of Bombay writers. Every lane contains multitudes, the street as it exists today, as it existed when Rushdie wrote about it, as it was when Ezekiel observed it, and as it might be represented by writers yet to emerge.

This layered vision is my inheritance, not passed down through family but self-discovered through years of reading. The gift of Bombay's literary tradition is this enriched perception, this ability to see beyond the immediate and recognize the continuous narrative of the city flowing beneath the chaos of the present moment.

Despite all its contradictions and challenges, this city still feels like home, not because I was born here, but because through its literature, I've learned to truly see it. The writers who have loved and chronicled Bombay have taught me how to love it too: critically, completely, and with clear eyes.

Write a comment ...

Write a comment ...